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Pruning Toolkit |
 By the Editors of CornerHardware.com
You're probably familiar with pruning tools. Chances are, your mother had a beat-up old pair of shears for cutting roses, and your father had a rusty pruning saw that rarely left its hook in the garage. Your parents probably picked up these tools at a garage sale. You could do the same, but your plants and your muscles will thank you if you take a few minutes to read this article and buy a tool that's right for the job.
| Pruning Toolkit |
| Bypass shears |
Anvil shears |
| Ratchet shears |
Anvil loppers |
| Bypass loppers |
Bow saw |
| Standard pruning saw |
Japanese-style saw |
| Pole pruners |
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Pruning Shears
Pruning shears, sometimes called hand pruners or simply shears, are designed to slice through stems that have a diameter of up to 1/2 inch. There are two basic kinds of pruning shears: bypass and anvil. |
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Bypass Shears
Bypass shears look something like scissors. Instead of having two cutting blades, however, they have just one, which is sharpened on the outside edge. The lower "blade," generally referred to as the "hook," does not cut—instead, it cradles a stem or branch, holding it in place while the true blade sweeps down and past the hook to cut.
Bypass shears are fine for general use: deadheading flowers, snipping garden twine, cutting down perennials in the fall and pruning shrubs. The narrow, pointed blade allows the tool to get into tight spots. The only real drawback of bypass shears is their limited cutting power. A branch with a diameter of 1/2 inch is the absolute maximum you can expect to cut with these shears—and, with all but the most expensive models, you'll struggle to get through a branch that thick. If you have a lot of heavy pruning to do, get pruners with a rotating handle—it'll reduce blisters and fatigue. |
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Anvil Shears
Anvil shears have a different look (snub-nosed, like a fish), and they operate on a different principle. When the handles are squeezed, the blade, which is sharpened on both sides like a knife, slices through the branch and comes down on a flat surface, called the "anvil," on the lower jaw of the shears. The anvil is made of a relatively soft material—plastic on inexpensive models, brass or aluminum on better ones. This material helps cushion the impact of the blade, keeping it sharper longer.
A sturdy pair of anvil shears will cut a woody branch 1/2 inch in diameter without much fuss. Folks who do a lot of pruning (workers in vineyards, for example) swear by them. The drawbacks? Being less svelte, they're less maneuverable than bypass shears, and they're useless for cutting the soft stems of perennials and annuals |
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Ratchet Shears
People who have a weak grip (arthritis sufferers, for example) will be interested in a variation on anvil shears called ratchet shears. The ratchet is a series of teeth situated between the handles. Squeeze once, and the blade begins to dig into the stem. Release your grip, and a pin drops between the next pair of teeth and the blades hold their position. Squeeze again, applying the same force, and the blade cuts deeper into the stem. After three or four squeezes, the shears cut through the branch. Note that ratchet shears, like anvil shears, are useful only for cutting woody stems.
In general, you get what you pay for. Inexpensive shears are fine for occasional light pruning, but they won't stand up to heavy use. High-end or professional models are designed for people who prune constantly and demand rugged, reliable tools. Many, sometimes all, of the parts of such shears are replaceable, so when a part wears out or breaks, you can repair the shears and keep on using them indefinitely. Besides ergonomic handles, some come in right-hand and left-hand versions. |
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Loppers
Loppers are really nothing more than long-handled pruning shears. The handles, which are typically about 18 inches long, increase leverage, allowing you to cut stems up to about 1 inch in diameter. As you might guess, you need both hands to use them. There are bypass and anvil loppers, just as there are bypass and anvil pruning shears, and they have the same pros and cons (although no one would use a pair of loppers to cut anything but woody stems). There are also ratchet models. Because of the long handles and the need for more substantial cutting hardware, loppers are generally more expensive than pruning shears. |
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Pruning Saws
To cut a branch larger than an inch or so in diameter, you'll need a pruning saw. There are many different kinds, but it's possible to break them down into three basic groups: bow saws, "standard" pruning saws (for lack of a better name), and Japanese-style saws. |
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Bow Saw
A bow saw looks something like an extra-large hacksaw with extra-large teeth. It may be rectangular or triangular in shape, with a springy tubular steel frame holding a long, thin blade in tension. Because its blade is so thin, a bow saw is capable of cutting large branches with surprising ease. Unfortunately, the arched frame limits the bow saw to use only on widely spaced branches. And because it cuts on the push stroke, it's very tiring to use it to cut a branch above chest level. |
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Standard Pruning Saws
Standard pruning saws come in many variations on one basic design: a long (typically 12 to 24 inches), tapering steel blade fixed to a handle made of wood. The blade may be straight or curved and may cut on the push or the pull stroke.
The number of teeth or "points" per inch determines whether the cut that these saws make is coarse or fine. The greater the number of teeth per inch (the maximum is 10), the finer the cut. For pruning, seven or eight teeth per inch is best. Fewer teeth per inch makes a ragged cut that may inhibit the ability of a tree or shrub to heal. For branches larger than 6 inches in diameter, consider calling a certified arborist. |
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Japanese-Style Saws
Japanese-style saws got their name because their blade design originated in Japan. (You may also see these saws referred to as "turbo" or "frictionless" saws.) Although relatively new to the American market, Japanese-style saws have gained rapidly in popularity. Their teeth, which a shark would envy, are incredibly sharp and long lasting. These saws cut very easily and very quickly, and they give a finer cut than either bow or standard pruning saws, promoting rapid healing of the wound.
Most Japanese-style saws have small blades (just 7 or 8 inches long) that fold into plastic, banana-shaped handles, so they're easily carried in a back pocket. They can cut branches up to about 3 inches in diameter. There are also fixed-handle models with 9- to 15-inch blades that are capable of cutting larger branches. It's a good idea to wear thick gloves when using any pruning saw, but with these saws, gloves are an absolute necessity. |
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Pole Pruners
Pole pruners are pruning shears or saws that are attached to a telescoping pole, generally made of fiberglass. With a pole pruner you can remove small branches up to 1 1/2 inches in diameter that you can't otherwise reach.
The heads of most pole pruners combine modified bypass shears on one side with a standard pruning saw on the other. The shears are in the form of an upside-down U, and a rope-operated blade is hidden inside the head. You hook the pruner over a branch and pull on the rope, which draws the blade out of the head and through the branch. After you cut the branch and release the rope, a spring retracts the blade into the head. The saw on the other side of the pruner has a curved blade and cuts on the pull stroke, adding the force of gravity to your muscle power. On most models, the saw blade can be set at three different angles to improve cutting ease and efficiency. |
When Your Reach Exceeds Your Grasp
The standard rule in pruning is to call an arborist to cut any limb you can't reach while you're standing with both feet on the ground. A pole pruner allows you to get around this rule to cut small branches, but use this tool with caution to avoid serious injury to you—and to the tree you're pruning. If you're new to pruning, see your local agricultural extension office for successful pruning practices.
Don't use a pole that reaches any higher than 10 or 12 feet, and don't try to cut a branch that's larger than the rating for the shears or saw you're using. And, whatever you do, never use a pole pruner near power lines. If you have any doubt that a pole pruner is the right tool to remove a branch, don't use it. Call a certified arborist instead. |
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