When a gutter stops running or the roof starts leaking, somebody has to climb a ladder and fix it. If that somebody is you, take the time to do it safely. Even the most confident climbers have accidents: In 1998, more than 157,000 U.S. emergency room visits were caused by ladder accidents, according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission. Now, we're not suggesting that you let the top half of your house go to pot. But take a few precautions and you'll lessen the risks—and the acrophobia.
Check Your Equipment
Ladders are rated according to the weight they can support. The most common household ladders are Type III, which can support up to 200 pounds. The ratings are as follows:
Rating
Maximum Load
Type I-A
300 lbs.
Type I
250 lbs.
Type II
225 lbs.
Type III
200 lbs.
Be sure to use a ladder that will support the type of work you intend to perform. For many men, it's a good idea to upgrade to Type II. Also, look for UL or ANSI stamps of approval, which tell you the ladder has met certain safety standards.
Check your ladder for obvious defects before you use it. Check the rungs and their connection to the sides. Wooden rungs may be cracked—ditto for the uprights themselves. A metal ladder may have loose rivets or bent supports. If you're using a stepladder, make sure it locks securely into place. If you find problems, repair them or replace the ladder. Your ladder should have slip-resistant feet, and if it's made of metal, slip-resistant rungs as well. If you're using an extension ladder, check that the extension mechanism with its ropes and pulleys is working properly and in good condition.
Check the Work Area
Clear debris from around the base of the ladder, and pay special attention to the area within the ladder's reach. If the ladder were to fall in any direction—especially sideways or backward—what would you hit? In particular, be on the lookout for power lines or service entrances. If you must work around electricity, don't use a metal ladder; it can act as a conductor and deliver a potentially fatal shock. Instead, use a dry wooden ladder or, better yet, a fiberglass model. (A wet wooden ladder can also conduct electricity.)
Check the ground where the feet will rest. If it's too soft or muddy, set the feet on a large, flat board. If you must raise a ladder on uneven ground, place one or two 12-inch square plywood pieces under the "short" leg to elevate it. Beyond this, don't use wood to level the ladder; larger blocks may shift and send you tumbling. Instead, look into leveling accessories that attach to the ladder's base and securely adjust the lengths of the legs.
To raise an extension ladder, brace the feet against the base of the structure you're working against and "walk" the ladder up from underneath, working hand over hand as the animation shows. Pull it slightly away from the structure once it's upright and pull the rope to extend the ladder. Once the ladder is as tall as you want it, pull the feet away from the wall to a distance equal to one-fourth the height at which you'll be working (not the length of the ladder). If the ladder rests against the roof edge, be sure that it extends 3 feet above the point of contact.
Safety
If possible, tie the ladder to the structure you're climbing, or have someone brace the ladder from below. Always keep the front of your body toward the ladder, and don't try to haul heavy items up or down. Put tools in pockets or in a tool belt so that your hands are free to climb. You can always pull things up with a rope and bucket once you're in position.
Don't stand on the top three rungs of a straight or extension ladder, and never stand on the top of a stepladder. Also, never lean too far to one side while trying to reach something. Rule of thumb: Keep your hips between the ladder rails. If you must move outside this safety zone, get off the ladder and reposition it so you can reach safely.
With these basic precautions, you'll work safely and confidently atop a ladder. Now: go get those gutters!
Tip From the Pros
When you buy a straight or extension ladder, be sure it's tall enough for your house. Consider the angle at which the ladder will rest plus the three-foot safety overlap. Thus, if your house eaves are 20 feet from the ground (about average for a two-story house), you'll need a 24-foot extension ladder to work safely on the gutters.
